The Touring Bulls

April 2025

Two Weeks in the Outer Hebrides: The Ultimate Campervan Road Trip

If you’ve ever dreamed of wild beaches, remote roads, and the kind of peace that only comes with being miles from anywhere—this is your sign to take your campervan to the Outer Hebrides.

We just returned from two unforgettable weeks touring this remote Scottish island chain in our VW California, and honestly? It exceeded every expectation. From the moment we boarded the ferry to Barra, we knew we were in for something special.

What are the Outer Hebrides?

The Outer Hebrides, also know as the “Western Isles”, are a chain of islands off the west coast of mainland Scotland. They are renowned for their rugged beauty, white sandy beaches, Gaelic culture, and rich wildlife. Would you believe that there are 119 individual islands? But only 15 are inhabited. The largest and most well known are (from South to North) Barra, Benbecula, South and North Uist, Harris and Lewis. The rest are smaller islets and “skerries”, many of which are uninhabited but still rich in wildlife and natural beauty. The locals speak a smooth mix of Gaelic and English which I found fascinating to listen to! Accents include mixes of Scottish, Northern Irish and Irish.

Getting around the Outer Hebrides is easier than you might think. The islands are connected by a combination of scenic causeways and a well-established ferry network operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac), which is owned by the Scottish Government. You can drive between many of the islands thanks to the causeways, while ferries link the rest—as well as connecting the islands to the mainland. Ferries cater to both foot passengers and vehicles, making it simple to explore the islands by campervan.

Fun Fact:

The beaches in the Outer Hebrides are so white because the sand is made almost entirely of crushed seashells and coral! 🐚 Over thousands of years, the ocean has broken down tiny sea creatures into fine, bright sand, giving the islands their stunning, tropical-looking shores — just without the tropical heat!

Why the Outer Hebrides?

We wanted to slow down. To find space, reconnect, and see stunning scenery—and the Outer Hebrides delivered all that and more. Think Caribbean-blue waters, powdery white sands, and single-track roads that make the journey just as exciting as the destination.

The Route We Took

We started in Barra (point C on the map below) and slowly made our way north through the islands. I’ll cover off the “topping and tailing” stops from the South of England in another post:

• Barra (2 nights) – A gentle start, the ferry takes around 5 hours from Oban on the mainland. We drove all of 5 minutes from Castlebay, which is the main port in Barra, to our stunning campsite (Borve Camping and Caravan Site – https://www.barracamping.co.uk), run by the lovely Donald who greeted us and couldn’t have been more helpful. As it was late in the day we set up the van and had dinner and drinks watching the sun set over the calm sea taking a moment to pinch ourselves.

We had one full day on Barra so walked 10 mins to the nearest beach, The Isle of Barra Beach, which was just magnificent. Proper wow factor. We barely saw another person and messed about for hours in the sand and crystal clear waters.

• Ferry from North of Barra (Ardmhor) to South Uist (Eriskay) – We set off early to explore Barra before our afternoon ferry and the drive didn’t disappoint – more white sand beaches with turquoise waters awaited around most corners. Don’t miss the Vatersay beaches in the South, Cleat Beach in the North and Barra airport, which is a huge runway on a beach……! You’ll never catch me flying there!!!

• Eriskay and South Uist (1 night) – We didn’t spend too long in South Uist.. On arrival we stopped at a pub called The Politician about 10 mins from the ferry terminal (there’s a story about a ship that was en route to Jamaica with 40,000 cases of Whiskey that sunk nearby, the islanders helped themselves and this pub still has a few of the bottles!). We had a quick drink here then moved onto the next campsite http://www.kilbridecampsite.co.uk which is a lovely situation next to another incredible beach, and with great facilities.

• Benbecula – Benbecula often gets overlooked as a “pass-through” island, but we found it quietly captivating. Nestled between North and South Uist, it’s flatter and more low-lying than its neighbours, with wide-open skies and a patchwork of lochs and peat bogs that give it a serene, otherworldly feel. It’s the kind of place where you can drive for miles without seeing another soul—perfect for slowing down and soaking in the wild. We stopped for a coffee and bacon roll at the Hebridean Jewellery shop which is a lovely gift shop with a locals cafe attached. It might not have the drama of Harris or the beaches of Barra, but Benbecula has a calm, gentle magic all its own.

• North Uist (3 nights) – With endless open skies that stretched forever, the drive was through mainly single track roads with rugged terrain. We pitched up at Balranald campsite https://balranaldhebrideanholidays.com which is on a working farm with a huge beach on one side and cemetery on the other..! It’s in a great location for exploring the beaches and landscapes around North Uist. We had a couple of nights with the roof down as the winds picked up here! The site has a handy drying room for anything that gets soaked – we used it for towels and the odd sock after a day at the beach! Note that the showers are £1 for 7.5 minutes so pack your change…..!

• Berneray to Harris (Leverburgh)– The ferry from here to Harris was slow moving between shallower rocky waters but stunning – you are meant to be able to see sea life but the marine community was feeling particularly shy on this crossing!!

• Harris (3 nights) – Just wow. Harris has a similar feel to Barra, it’s stunning and the drive from the ferry to the campsite we stayed at was breathtaking. Luskentyre and Seilebost beaches look like they belong in the tropics.
  This is the stuff of postcards, and we were lucky enough to see the Northern Lights from the campsite. Never in a million years did we expect this utter beauty, regardless of how much you read about! Standing under the swirling Northern Lights, with just the sound of waves crashing against the shore, was one of those rare moments that makes you forget the world exists beyond the horizon.
  The campsite, Talla Na Mara https://www.westharristrust.org/campinginwestharris, was perfectly situated to explore (by foot) nearby beaches and hike up hills with views for days!

Whilst here we visited the lovely restaurant and bar in Leverburgh (about 15 mins drive from our campsite) called the Isle of Harris Brewery – each day they have a specials board and often have fresh produce caught that day along with their home brewed beers. Absolutely worth visiting: https://www.isleofharrisbrewery.com.

Before leaving Harris we had to visit the Harris Tweed shop to accidentally purchase a coupe of dog collars and a discounted handbag!! Followed swiftly by the Isle of Harris Distillery, run by lovely locals passionate about their Whiskeys and Gins! (we couldn’t come away empty handed of course).

• Lewis – History lovers, this is your island—standing stones, blackhouses, and dramatic cliffs. Rocky, rugged, a real contrast to Harris. There are some fantastic walks and unfortunately we didn’t leave ourselves enough time to explore this island at all – but we will and we will definitely be back!

Van Life

We’d booked campsites every night but honestly will have a go at wild camping next time, tucked into hidden spots with ocean views or moorland stillness. The California made life easy—quick to set up, cosy at night, and compact enough for the narrow Hebridean roads.

There were days with no signal, no shops, no plans—just us, the van, and the landscape. And that was the magic of it. There is nothing quite like packing up all your things and heading off to the next adventure with your little home on wheels.

Highlights We’ll Never Forget

• Cooking dinner while watching the sun set

• Being greeted by a seal playing in the bay as we arrived into South Uist

• Brewing a coffee in the morning sunrise while listening to the waves gently lap at the shore

• Seeing an incredible Northern Lights display over the Harris coastline

• Drinking coffee in bed with the back of the van open to the sea breeze

• The magnificent langoustines served at the Harris Brewery

Tips for Your Trip

• Book ferries in advance – Especially if you’re taking a campervan. Go for afternoon times if you can, to allow a bit more time after packing down to explore more of the island you’re on.

• Stock up on supplies – Shops can be few and far between so make sure you stock up on any fresh stuff wherever you can, and fuel!

• Be weather-ready – We had mainly sunshine, but sideways rain, hail, and wind also featured on our trip. Take layers and waterproofs, and work out how you’ll dry stuff when needed.

• Respect the land – Stick to Leave No Trace principles and use designated spots where possible.

• If you have a van with a pop top work out a plan for sleeping with it closed – the winds can get high so we made sure we had a solution for us all sleeping with the roof closed (the bunk over the front seats came in super helpful!).
  
• Don’t Overpack! – make sure it’s easy to set up and pack down to maximise your time enjoying the islands!
  

Useful Links for Planning Your Outer Hebrides Adventure

• CalMac Ferries – Book ferry travel between islands

• Outer Hebrides Tourism Board – Visitor information and inspiration

• Scotland Wild Camping Guidelines – How to camp responsibly

• [Our Hebridean Campervan Packing List (Coming Soon!)]

• Follow us on Instagram @the_touring_bulls for more van life ideas

Would We Do It Again?

In a heartbeat. And yes, we will. The Outer Hebrides is a place that slows you down and leaves you better than it found you. If you’re looking for a road trip that’s as soul-stirring as it is scenic—this is it.

Thanks for coming along on our Outer Hebrides adventure — it’s a trip we’ll never forget, and we hope it’s inspired you to start planning your own! 🌊🚐 If you’ve got any questions about routes, ferries, or life on the road, drop them in the comments — we love hearing from you.

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Thanks again!

— Amy and The Touring Bulls! x